Did you ever feel inspired by a fashion icon and think, “I want to create that”?
My knit crochet top journey began when a YouTube subscriber asked for help to make Taylor Swift’s “The Open Back” chevron knit crochet crop top. The allure of Swift’s interview outfit had us hooked, and I guided her through the process.
Admittedly, it was my first time knitting from an image, but that only added to the excitement. In this guide, I’ll take you through our journey, step by step, as we recreate this stunning piece. Let’s bring Taylor Swift style to life, one stitch at a time. Skill Level: Intermediate/advanced knitter. Need some crochet skills. Size: S/M Original Chevron Open Back Mother top is machine knit. A dedicated tutorial is available here if you are not familiar with the Chevron pattern. Challenge Nr. 1: hand-knit as close to the original as possible. “Please note that some of the links on this blog are affiliate links, and I may earn a small commission if you purchase products through them. Your support through these links helps sustain this blog and is sincerely appreciated. Rest assured, I only recommend products I believe in.”Materials and Tools
Yarn Selection:
I crafted crop top from a 50% cotton and 50% viscose blend.
In my stash, I had Himalaya Bamboo Deluxe yarn, which is a 60% bamboo/40% cotton blend, and I found it to be a suitable choice without further searching. I used four different colors = blue, cream, pink and beige.
My knitting friend opted for Patons Linen, a 3-weight yarn 65% cotton and 35% linen blend.
Needles and Crochet Hook:
Two sizes of circular knitting needles: 3.00 mm (US 3 which is 3.25mm, but that is not that important) and 2.5 mm (US 1 or 2). Or close to these sizes.
A crochet hook with a size of 2.5 mm (US C/2).
Measuring tape
Yarn Weight Clarification:
I used 3.00 mm knitting needles, which corresponds to a ‘fine’ or ‘light’ yarn weight, using different terminology.
For creating borders, I switched to 2.5 mm needles.
Pattern and Swatch:
The pattern for the crochet crop top features a distinctive Chevron design, involving a combination of knit and purl rows.
I highly recommend knitting a swatch before starting the project. I knitted 2 pattern repeats, each with 16 stitches, plus an extra stitch for symmetry, and 2 edge stitches. Total swatch is 35 stitches. This will help ensure your gauge and sizing are accurate before proceeding further.
Written Pattern for Chevron Swatch:
Abbreviations:
k3tog: Centered double decrease
yo: Yarn over
st/es: Stitch/es
Cast On and Prep:
Cast on 35 stitches.
Turn your work and purl across.
Begin the pattern on the right side of your work.
Row 1 (right Side):
Edge stitch, *knit 1, yo, knit 6, k3tog, knit 6, yo*, knit 1, edge stitch. Repeat from * to * one more time.
Row 2 (Wrong side):
Purl across.
You can also experiment by swapping knit rows with purl rows to achieve a Garter stitch variation.
Row 1 (Right side):
Edge st, *knit 1, yo, knit 6, k3tog, knit 6, yo*, knit 1, edge st. Repeat from * to * 1 more time.
Row 2 (Wrong side):
Edge st, knit 1 *purl 1, knit 6, purl 1, knit 6, purl 2*, edge st. Repeat from * to ** 1 more time.
Repeat rows 1-2 at least 4 more times. Bind off.
Now, it’s time to dive into the crochet portion of our project. I couldn’t find a similar knit pattern by examining the original piece (I gave it my best shot!), so we’ll crocheting. I used a 2mm crochet hook.
Begin by creating the first single crochet row, picking up stitches from the bind-off edge. Keep in mind that the stitch count may vary, but we want to maintain the same width.
For the second row, work another single crochet row. In the third row, follow the pattern 1 half double crochet, chain 1 until you reach the end of the row.
Repeat the second and third rows two more times (this will be sufficient for a swatch).
Now, let’s go back to picking up stitches from the crochet row. You’ll need to match the same stitch count as in the previous knit section.
Picking up stitches from a crochet row can be tricky, but do your best to align them with the previous stitches to match the decreases and yarn overs. Some places you will have to pick up a few stitches from 1, to align decrease line later.
Once you’ve completed the swatch, be sure to wash and dry it before proceeding with further calculations. This step will help ensure accurate measurements for your project.
How Many Stitches to Cast On?
I knitted this piece as one unified front and back. To determine the ideal number of initial cast-on stitches, you’ll first need to calculate the length of 1 pattern repeat in centimeters (or inches).
Example:
Consider your gauge, which is 3.3 stitches and 2.8 rows per 10 centimeters (2.5 inches). One pattern repeat measures 5 centimeters, equivalent to 16 stitches.
Begin by measuring the circumference at the point where you want the bottom of your piece to start. In my case, it measured around 78 centimeters.
Divide 78 by 5, resulting in 15.6. To ensure you have a whole number of repeats, round up to 16 repeats.
Multiply 16 repeats by 16 stitches per repeat, which equals 256 stitches. Add 1 stitch for symmetry and 2 edge stitches, resulting in a total of 259 cast-on stitches.
Cast on the specified number of stitches and commence following the Chevron pattern, incorporating color changes. As you progress, decrease a certain number of stitches every second row from both sides to create the back opening.
You might be wondering, “How many decreases are required exactly?” Well, that depends on how wide you want the opening to be. If you choose not to decrease at all and knit straight, you’ll have a minimal opening.
However, I observed that when worn, the opening tends to stretch to approximately 3 times its flat measurement. Initially, I calculated for a 5-centimeter opening and decreased by 2.5 centimeters (8 stitches) from each side. After trying it out, the opening expanded to around 15 centimeters.
Now, based on my experience, you can decide how wide you want your opening to be.
Transitioning Between Knitting and Crochet:
- After knitting approximately 12 centimeters, it’s time to bind off your knitting. Following this, pick up stitches from the bind-off edge. Expect the stitch count to be fewer than your original knit stitches. It’s crucial to ensure that the width of the crochet section matches the knit part. Crochet to a height of approximately 6 centimeters.
- Now, it’s time to continue with the knit section seamlessly. Begin by picking up stitches along the last crochet row.
- Knit for about 28 centimeters until you reach the point where you want to create armholes, or the length that suits your preference.
Shaping the Armholes
Before you start with this section, read this: armhole shaping tutorial. It might help you understand the topic better.
My armhole is 5 cm (1.96”) wide. 5×3.30=16.5 stitches together. Let’s round to a whole number – 16 stitches.
That means decrease 8 stitches on each side. I distributed decreases this way: 3-2-2-1 Start the row, knit until the first marker.
Turn back and decrease 3 stitches on the wrong side. Knit till the end of the row.
Then turn again, knit right side till the end of the row, turn and decrease 2 stitches on the wrong side, knit to the end, etc. until we complete all decreases.
Important! Keep track of yarn overs and k3tog stitches. When you decrease for an armhole (and anywhere else in lace patterns), if you decrease yarn over, don’t decrease next stitch to keep stitch count. For example, if I get to decrease yarn over, I k2tog instead of k3tog.
Knit straight up for about 4cm (1.57”) and bind off. Work the crochet part the same as we did previously.
Back Neck Hole Shaping – First Part:
As a basis for this calculation, I used this tutorial: round neckline shaping.
This section will become the right side of the back when looking at the knitting from the front. Once you wear it, it will be on the left side. I hope this doesn’t confuse you!
Begin by picking up stitches for knitting once again. Knit in pattern for approximately 2 centimeters. Then, increase by 1 stitch eight times, every 2nd row, at the side where the back opening will be, to allow for closure.
After knitting for 7 centimeters from the starting point, commence the back neck hole shaping. In my case, I made the back neck hole 6 centimeters deep (equivalent to 2.8×6 =16 rows). On the side facing the armhole, continue to knit straight.
Now, bind off 24 stitches on the right side. Following that, bind off stitches in the following sequence: 3-3-3-3-1-1-0, with the last few rows knitted straight.
Finally, bind off the topmost 16 stitches. These stitches form the shoulder seam.
The Front Part and Neckline Shaping.
Start working on the front side with armhole shaping. This time you decrease from both sides the same way as in the back. And knit and crochet part is in the same manner until you get to around 11cm from the armhole shaping, that’s where you start neckline shaping.
Again, at this point will split knitting in half, first work on the right side and after binding off, start working on the left side. In my case, the neck hole is 11.5 cm deep and around 22cm wide. In the middle, I left 27 stitches for the bind off at once.
From each side, I decreased 26 stitches over 32 rows. In my case, I decreased every other row this way: 4-3-3-3-2-2-2-2-1-1-1-1-1 stitches and the last 5 rows I knitted straight. Bind off.
Back Neck Hole Shaping – Second Part:
Start again from the right side of the work. The work flow is the same as the first part. Difference is first we start the row with the armhole opening and finish with the back opening. Same is for neck hole.
And there you have it – we’ve completed the main part of our project. Now, it’s time to give our piece those finishing touches by sewing the shoulder slopes together using the Mattress stitch technique.
Border Edge – Let’s Add a Dash of Fun:
Now, here’s where the fun truly begins. It’s time to conceal all those knitted sides within a delightful double border edge.
Not only will this step provide a polished look, but it also hides any wavy sections at the bottom of your piece. I worked on a border that’s about 2 centimeters wide.
First, grab your trusty crochet hook and create a slip stitch chain, extending approximately 1 centimeter (0.4 inches) from the outer edges. This clever move will expertly mask any imperfections that might have cropped up along the way.
You can begin with the armholes, neck hole, and bottom, and then complete the border for the back opening. Once that’s finished, proceed to knit double stockinette ties for the bottom closure.
Once you’ve got your crochet chain in place, it’s time to pick up stitches on your knitting needles. You’ll be knitting in the round around the armholes and neckline, while the other sides remain flat.
Knit stockinette stitch for a length that’s twice the size of your finished border. For example, if your border is 2 centimeters wide, knit 4 centimeters in stockinette.
Now, you’ll need to attach live stitches to the wrong side of the crochet chain. It’s challenging to describe this technique in the text format, so I’ve got an exclusive YouTube video where I show the process step-by-step. It’s a nifty technique to master, and watching the video will make it all crystal clear!
This part adds the perfect finishing touch to your project, giving it that professional edge. Watch the YouTube video below!
Once that’s finished, proceed to knit double stockinette ties for the bottom closure.
If you’re unsure about the best undergarments to pair with these open tops, my recommendation would be to opt for nipple covers.
Conclusion
We explored knitting, crochet, and shaping techniques on our creative journey inspired by Taylor Swift’s top.
Crafting is about more than just the result; it’s about the joy of bringing your vision to life.
Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, this project has likely sparked your creativity and expanded your skills. Wear your creation proudly, knowing it’s a testament to your craft and individuality.
Happy crafting, and many more inspired projects ahead!
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