Last updated on March 20th, 2026 at 10:16 am
I fell in love with basic granny squares once I found this easy way to join rounds.
Before that, I wasn’t happy with starting chain 3 and how my squares looked.
This is how crochet beginners usually start the round (chain 3).
I tried a bunch of methods, but this one just works the best-and I’m excited to share it with you!
Tips & Benefits of This Method:
No thinner-looking stitches caused by chain stitches.
No struggling with standing double crochets – the fake double crochet looks like a normal double crochet.
Using a half double crochet to join rounds allows you to start directly in the corner.
No turning on each round
I am crocheting a lot of granny squares now for future granny square cardigan. It is my quick crochet project for a bigger goal.
Materials Needed:
Yarn of your choice (I used worsted weight and 5mm crochet hook)
Corresponding crochet hook
Scissors, tapestry needle
Abbreviations (US terms):
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
How to crochet a granny square step by step with pictures
Round 1 (R1). How to Start Your Granny Square:
Make slip knot and chain 4.
Slip stitch into the 1st chain to form a ring. This forms the foundation—the center of your square.
Round 2 (R2):
Crochet over your starting tail to avoid weaving it in later.
Make a single crochet (sc) directly into the ring without chaining first.
Chain 2 (this creates a “fake double crochet” base).
Work 2 double crochets (dc) into the ring.
Chain 2.
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the ring.
Chain 2.
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the ring.
Chain 2.
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the ring.
Instead of chaining 2 for the corner, make a half double crochet (hdc) into the top chain of your fake double crochet.
At this point if you want to switch colors, you finish round with hdc and fasten off, join new color.
Round 3 (R3):
Work 1 fake double crochet (single crochet (sc) directly into the corner space, chain 2).
Work 2 double crochets (dc) into the same chain space (corner).
Chain 1 (side).
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the next corner chain space.
Chain 2 (for corner).
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the same corner chain-2 space.
Chain 1 (for the side).
Repeat steps 4-7 until you reach the last corner.
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the last corner chain space.
Instead of chaining 2, join with a half double crochet (hdc) into the top of the fake double crochet.
Round 4 (R4):
Work 1 fake double crochet (single crochet (sc) directly into the corner space, chain 2).
Work 2 double crochets (dc) into the same chain space (corner).
Chain 1 (side).
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the previous chain 1 space.
Chain 1.
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the same corner chain-2 space.
Chain 2 (for the corner).
- Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the same corner chain-2 space.
Repeat steps 3-8 around until you reach the last corner.
Work 3 double crochets (dc) into the last corner chain space.
Instead of chaining 2, join with a half double crochet (hdc) into the top of the fake double crochet.
Next rows follow the same crochet granny square pattern, sides will get longer, corners always will be 3dc, ch-2, 3dc.
Finishing Granny square:
When you reach your last round, hdc in the top of the fake double crochet and fasten off.
Weave ends.
Pull the center end tight to close the hole and snip the yarn.
No need to weave in this end if you crochet over it during the first round.
Granny Square FAQs: Your Questions Answered!
This is a very common problem! It usually happens for two reasons:
Tension: If your stitches are too tight, the square will start to curl. Try to relax your grip on the hook and yarn.
Incorrect stitch count: If you miss a stitch or a chain space, your square will start to lose its shape. Make sure you are counting your stitches and chains in each round. In a classic granny square, each side should grow by one cluster of 3 double crochets in each round.
This is another common issue. Traditional granny squares can sometimes have a slight twist to them. My pattern is designed to minimize this, but if you are still having trouble, here are a few tips:
Turn your work after each round: Some crocheters find that turning their work after each round helps to keep the square straight. But keep in mind that every other row there will be ‘wrong’ side of the stitches showing. Personally, I don’t like this. With this method here you should be fine without turning.
Block your granny squares: Blocking is a finishing technique where you wet or steam your finished squares and pin them into the correct shape. This will solve most issues with curling and twisting.
For beginners, I recommend using a worsted-weight acrylic or cotton yarn. It’s easy to work with, affordable, and comes in a wide variety of colors.
The size of your crochet hook will depend on the weight of your yarn. The yarn label will usually recommend a hook size. For worsted-weight yarn, a 5mm (H-8) or 5.5mm (I-9) hook is a good starting point. I used worsted weight and 5mm crochet hook.
To change colors, complete the last stitch of a round with the new color. Simply drop the old color, and pull the new color through the last two loops on your hook to complete the stitch. Then, continue with the new color. You can then cut the old yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later. I show in the video how I do it.
Conclusion
And there you have it! You’ve successfully learned how to create a beautiful, neat, and classic granny square using a special technique for an invisible join.
This easy granny square pattern is designed to give you a perfect result every time, making it an ideal beginner crochet project.
